With Shiva at Tiruvannamalaialai  

It is always my wish that I will be all alone in any temple, its surroundings are clean, also wish that inner precincts of temple are calm and silent; and the priest is cordial enough to allow me to pray at ease instead pushing me out of sanctum sanctorum.

None of these wishes will ever come true in Thiruvannamalai Temple.

And yet, and yet, and yet: you will be at peace with yourself by having darshan of Annamalaiyar - That is Arunachala Shiva. The consort of Arunachaleswar is “Apithakuchamba”, the mother aspect of Parvathi.

The temple is located in sprawling 25-acre compound with four large towers (Rajagopurams) in all cardinal directions. The main entrance to the temple is from eastern tower.

The seventh century Jnana Sambhadhar mentioned about Thiruvannamalai temple in his Thevarms (Verses). And it was patronised by successive rulers of Chola, Pallava, Vijayanagar, Hoyasala dynasties thereafter. Thus, the temple is sanctified by eons of worship.

The backdrop of temple is the Holy Hill Arunachala. The spiritual grandeur of Arunachala is deeply rooted in mythology. As legend goes, once Brahma and Vishnu had a bitter argument claiming the supremacy over each other - the creator or the Sustainer; who is mightier or great?

A typical ego clash and ensuing one-up-man ship. Then, Lord Shiva appeared as a column of light and tested them to find out the ends of the column. Brahma went up flying along the column of light while Vishnu went down burrowing the earth. Both failed and subdued in presence of greater Power. Then, Lord Shiva as a gesture of benediction, the column of light, condescended as hill for the benefit of mankind. Since the colour of flame is crimson red  ”Aruna” and the hill is “achala (Insentient)- it is Arunachala- reflecting the true aspect of God – “Dynamic Inertia.”

As seen while going round the Hill

Shiva manifested and is worshipped   as five elements - panchabhutas – Arunachala as fire, in Chidambaram as Akash (space or ether), in Kalahasthi as air, in Kanchi as earth (Ekambareswar) and Jumbukeshwar as Water. These are important pilgrimages of Lord Shiva.

No sooner, one enters the town of Thiruvannamalai, it is the holy hill that beckons - the peace that emanates is quite palpable even for an agnostic. That is the power of Holy Hill Arunachala.

Once Parvathi playfully closed the eyes of Shiva in their home garden in Kailash. Though it was a brief second in Kailash, it translated into ages for terrestrial realms and plunged them into darkness. Realizing the impending calamity, Shiva opened his spiritual eye and saved them. To redeem the sin, thus accrued by her act, Parvathi had come down to Mount Arunachala and undertook penance. Shiva graced her and to end such future separations from her, He offered half body and became “Arthnareeswara”. Signifying this divine act, there is “Arthanareeswara Temple on the eastern slopes of Arunachala.

Arthanareeswara Temple - Shiva as half  man and half woman 

Venkatraman, a runaway lad of sixteen, who later became a world teacher, Bhagavan Sri Ramana Maharshi lived on Arunachala Hill over 50 years. He extolled the glory of Arunachala in many vernacular Tamil verses, together known as “Arunachala Stuti Panchakam”- Five Gems in praise of Arunachala. He reemphasized the importance of circumambulation of the holy hill, a distance of 8 miles, in one’s spiritual quest. Devotees go round the hill, in bare foot, chanting various names of Shiva, a spiritual practice followed over the centuries. Ramana Ashram is another must visit place in Tiruvannamalai.

Of all festivals that Temple celebrates, the major one is Karthigai Deepam. A lamp is lit in a cauldron on top of the hill on full moon day in the month Karthigai, generally falls in November-December. The lamp is called Mahadeepam. More than 25 lac devotees gather to witness Mahadeepam every year.

In Ramanashram

Devotees doing Giripradakshina

If you can visit the Temple, go round the hill, visit the Ramana Ashram and witness Mahadeepam all in one breadth is a sure way of winning spiritual grand slam.

 How to Reach: Tiruvannamalai  is well connected by road from Bangalore and Chennai. A 5-hour drive.

Where to Stay: Fortunately, it is a place to suit every wallet. Many budget hotels are available. I recommend Ramana Towers if you are going with your family.