New Year Resolution

The days are numbered for ushering the New Year. Time to flip the last page of the calendar so dearly kept so far. Time to buy and exchange greeting cards. Time to party and guzzle few drinks. Time to welcome the New Year with lots of hope.

This is also time for one more habit bound ritual, taking New Year resolutions. We have plenty of choice here like spread of the New Year party. Quitting smoking, Exercise as part of fitness regime, implementing a dietary routine to lose few pounds, improving vocabulary, the archaic list goes on. Statistically, most of the New Year resolutions never see the light of the day after 3^rd week in January. No surprise. We all know about it.

We don’t have to run to psychologists to know the reasons behind the failures. The change desired is so steep; simply, cannot be sustained without steely determination.

Some of the resolutions are the urgent needs of an individual - life and death kind of, like quitting smoking or alcohol. Strictly speaking, one need not tag them to the onset of the New Year to begin implementing. New Year does not bring any special airwaves to breath-in, to succeed. Isn’t it?

I have a solution from my personal experience.

I took to smoking for fun as a student and soon it entrenched in my psyche, so deep I became an addict. Over a dozen years, I could feel my body asking for nicotine in every 25 to 30 minutes and I cannot hold but to light a cigarette to douse it. Fortunately, before it could affect my health, I realised and quit. Yes - I dropped it as if it’s a burning coal. I never felt the urge from then on and many of my friends called me lucky for giving up on a whim. It taught me a major lesson- habit is a thought. It will be with you as long as you entertain it. If you don’t entertain the thought, it deserts you. That is the secret. Same holds good to acquire a good habit – hold on to that habit-thought unceasingly.

Some dirty habits are community based. One such bad habit we all collectively, unknowingly indulged is, degrading the climate. We insulted and bruised her to the limit in our eagerness to conquer her. We are digging up, every ounce of her innards, burning and rejoicing. It has been continuing from last two centuries. We threw the uncivilised dirt in to the air, we cannot see and so we never noticed it. Of late, we started feeling it.

Until recently, she was silent and we took it as our victory. When reactions are surfacing, we are clueless and are beyond our comprehension. We need to mend our ways with steely Resolution. It is the time to end this dirty habit and protect mother earth’s fineries. It is the time to keep entertaining the thought of mother earth at every event of our life. Serious thought must precede the action.

The resolution has been taken collectively well ahead of New Year in Paris.

And it is the need of the hour, rather every second, to entertain the thought of restraint by each one of us to silence pleasure seeking soul within and start leading the life from private luxuries to sharing with the public -  otherwise, the years, if not days, will soon be numbered.

Best Wishes for a Happy and Prosperous New Year for mother earth’s sake.

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Temples in Mulbagal

“Mulbagal” is a small, bucolic border town in Karnataka, about 55 miles away from Bangalore, on the way to Tirupathi. A sleepy town, time runs slow here and occasionally stops too. Here, every day is just a copy of the previous day. Sun rises in the morning and sets in the evening, the only cosmic event that occurs daily in Mulbagal: nothing more special happens that cries for anyone’s attention.

Rewind 350 years backward, Mudalabagilu was an important administrative outpost of erstwhile Princely Mysore State. Mudalabagilu means, in native Kannada, Eastern Street, an entry door to Mysuru State. In fact, it was so for Vijayanagar Empire too. As a gateway, it was a busy town verifying the identity of people entering the kingdom and checking of material movements, in and out. However, trampled by time, Emperors have faded, kingdoms have faded and so the importance of Mudalabagilu. The name itself went thru several distortions in time, and perhaps deemed so trivial, nobody bothered to notice it even. Eventually, it is Mulbagal, today.

If you are wondering why I am talking about an insignificant town, is that, it houses many historic temples and I visited two of them last Friday. While my Verna car was passing thru the main street, we halted to enquire about the way to the temple, I found, three young guys, leaning on their stationary cycles, leisurely talking about something I cannot even guess, but must be a mundane topic, as they readily responded and guided us.

Anjeneya Temple.

Information available about temple is very sketchy. No records of, when and who built it. No inscriptions on the temple walls.

The two priests in Anjaneya temple, wearing ceremonious white “Dhoti” with green and red boarder, befitting their priestly duty welcomed us.

  Then, one of them performed routinely, what is expected – took the copper plate with lighted oil lamp and circled it around the main deity Anjeneya and brought it back along with few tulasi leaves as Prasad. The granite statue is close to 12 feet height and around four feet width. Here, Anjeneya is depicted, holding a knife in one hand and his main weapon “Gada” in the other hand. It is very pleasant standing close to the deity and praying, unlike in other temples, where the deity is located deep inside the sanctum sanctorum, barring the entry of public.

When asked about the significance of the temple, the priest narrated the story. Arjuna, after winning the epic Kurukshetra war, came here to pray Hanuman. Thanks giving to Hanuman for having stood as badge on his ensign that fluttered atop his chariot, protecting him throughout the war.  Arjuna installed and consecrated the deity, legend says.

Since Hanuman is inseparable from Vishnu, the premises also houses Varadaraja and Rama temples, believed to have been consecrated by Sage Vasishta. It is said that Great Sage Bhrugu, one of the seven grand sages visited the temple.

It is impossible to verify the veracity of these claims; however, historians confirmed that the temple was built around 1200 AD. 

Someswara Temple.

I wonder why some Shiva temples are known as Someswara Temples; Som is another name of Chandra, the moon. Since Shiva wears moon on his head, is also called Someswar. It is Shiva’s one of many names – accepted, but my doubt persists, yet.

The Someswara temple in Mulbagal is constructed in 12^th century, coinciding with Chola period.

Locals believe the Shiv Linga is swayambu – manifested on its own.

The priest claimed to be new to this temple and could not throw any light about the temple origins. Contended with darshan, we left the temple.

I saw a notice near the main gate, a pale green board with white colour letters, declaring the temple status as protected monument by Karnataka Archaeology Department. Immediately after my return, I had written to Director of Archaeology dept. seeking more information on the temple origins. Hopeful to get interesting reply.

It took almost three hours to reach back home covering 55 miles, wading thru the thick Bangalore traffic.

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Taj Mahal.

I had been visiting Delhi periodically for the last 15 years but never attempted to visit nearby Agra and Taj Mahal. Indifference towards monument?  No. Languid disposition? Yes. Anyway, I had to make it along with my Japanese colleges coming from Tokyo.

The traffic in Delhi until we reached Delhi-Agra highway, was anything but chaotic, however the drive on highway was very comfortable. But, then, the way to Taj in Agra, the city that housed symbol of love, is through unhygienic surroundings and dirty roads - over flowing open drains or stench of left overs of human uncivility.

In contrast, no sooner we crossed the huge red gate, Taj Mahal stood majestically. This white shining edifice is breathtakingly beautiful. With its four-ornamental and guardian pillars, Taj Mahal is truly a gem in India’s diadem. Now I regret my earlier indolence of delaying the visit. It is made of special white marble of high quality; some of it was brought from Persia.

Shah Jahan, the grandson of Akbar   built Taj in memory of his loving and departed wife, Mumtaj Mahal. Mumtaj was his third wife and died while delivering his 14^th child. The grieving Shah Jahan built the mausoleum as an expression of his love that houses tombs of Mumtaj and his, later. So much adoration for a woman and love! Great! Deffinitely, he had strained relations with all future widowers and husbands.

The construction of Taj started in the year 1642 and took 20 years to complete with skilled artisans from India and other parts of Asia. Around 1000 elephants toiled during 2-decade long construction; aiding human imagination, it is said.

The pathways to Taj from main gate are through well-maintained gardens.

When once I stood next to Taj, I realized its huge size, but hardly interesting, may be, because the symbol of love is out of single frame of sight. The fine and intricate artwork on marble is a commentary on the skill of artisans.

One rumour has been running thru the history of Taj that Shah Jahan had killed or chopped off hands of artisans who built Taj, preventing them to replicate it. Thus, he desired his creation to be unique and single. A man who built embodiment of Love, could he be so ruthless? I doubt.

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 In its close to 400 years of existence, Taj weathered ravages of time, onslaught of rebels and wrath of a brutally insensitive British governor whose  vain attempts to auction off Taj, not once, but twice, left the  monument intact.

British humourist and writer Edward Lear once described, after visiting Taj, "Henceforth, let the inhabitants of the world be divided into two classes - them as has seen the Taj Mahal, and them as hasn't."

Though there are other equally great monuments in Agra, I left the city next day morning, back to Bangalore – contended, for the time being, to be on the Taj side of the world.
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Quality - the art of Virtual tools

Excellence is always shrouded with mystery. Any attempt to express or measure it, in practical terms is like defining the abstract. And best management practices are no different however scientific they are.

Over the years, the way business is being carried out, has become complex and its dependency on 3^rd party tools is more evident than ever before. Can we imagine running an organization without MS office? “Hunger” for betterment is not enough but reach and deployment of such tools have become bare necessity of trade.

For any progressive group, the topic will always be, how  to enhance the quality by deploying new and powerful software tools. Now, plans are afoot in all organizations to integrate the systems, from field to boardrooms, to run  on one string and most of it is expected to be on “cloud”, thus adding a “Omnipresent” dimension to    team members to poll or process  information  in real time mode, of course to the benefit of customers. The end result is expected to be nothing less than excellence  from "Virtual world."

However, I never expected that my euphoric thoughts on “Virtual tools” would take a beating by seemingly unconnected event, in the last week-end.

I had to accompany a friend of mine to Halebid and Belur temples, located around 90 km away, on the north-western side of Bangalore. The temples depict Hoyasala architecture and legend of the land says, in 10^th century, under the patronage of a generous king, the master sculptor “Jakkanacharya” and his able team carved out masterpieces of sculpture and build these temples. The experts described the temple as "supreme climax of Indian architecture". The temple walls are decorated with statues depicting various events of life - a wedding, a romancing couple, a warrior and various aspects of God - all are finely carved out of black granite and brimming with life. The bottom of the wall has a border with elephants standing in line holding the tail of front one with trunk. The guide was telling, though all elephants are look alike, close observation reveals, no two are of same design. The kingpin is the statue of a woman “looking into mirror” .The artist finely embedded her feelings as well. The woman is examining her make up while holding a mirror in hand. She is not happy with her “mascara” or colour of lipstick, perhaps, she is bit irritated by noticing  fine lapses - maybe she is getting ready to meet her man friend soon and understandably the occasion calls for better preparation. All these feelings are manifesting and vivid even after 1000 years - as if, this fine piece of art is quietly talking to me. And that’s the commentary on the esoteric craftsmanship. My guide went on saying, all stone blocks are not suitable but a chosen few and sculptors are masters of Science of evaluating the quality of stone.

Suddenly, amidst great art, I was pushed into reverie - what tools these artists had had about 1000 years ago? Power drills, steel files or computers to check the design?? They had most rudimentary iron hammer and a pencil of metal to chip out, bits of granite – and the outcome is a stupendous art and stood ravages of time, reflecting their glory even after centuries! They had spacious imagination and high degree of skill coupled with determination. And under the heat of their will to succeed, even hard granite softened and took the desired shape. By sheer discipline, they had earned the passwords to “That” Operating System to invoke these virtual tools at will. Perhaps, that’s the secret behind those eternal masterpieces.

What really are today’s “Performance – enhancers”? Computers or Fine tools or Hunger for higher performance or mix of all? Or something that deeply enshrined within our psyche?

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With Shiva at Tiruvannamalaialai  

It is always my wish that I will be all alone in any temple, its surroundings are clean, also wish that inner precincts of temple are calm and silent; and the priest is cordial enough to allow me to pray at ease instead pushing me out of sanctum sanctorum.

None of these wishes will ever come true in Thiruvannamalai Temple.

And yet, and yet, and yet: you will be at peace with yourself by having darshan of Annamalaiyar - That is Arunachala Shiva. The consort of Arunachaleswar is “Apithakuchamba”, the mother aspect of Parvathi.

The temple is located in sprawling 25-acre compound with four large towers (Rajagopurams) in all cardinal directions. The main entrance to the temple is from eastern tower.

The seventh century Jnana Sambhadhar mentioned about Thiruvannamalai temple in his Thevarms (Verses). And it was patronised by successive rulers of Chola, Pallava, Vijayanagar, Hoyasala dynasties thereafter. Thus, the temple is sanctified by eons of worship.

The backdrop of temple is the Holy Hill Arunachala. The spiritual grandeur of Arunachala is deeply rooted in mythology. As legend goes, once Brahma and Vishnu had a bitter argument claiming the supremacy over each other - the creator or the Sustainer; who is mightier or great?

A typical ego clash and ensuing one-up-man ship. Then, Lord Shiva appeared as a column of light and tested them to find out the ends of the column. Brahma went up flying along the column of light while Vishnu went down burrowing the earth. Both failed and subdued in presence of greater Power. Then, Lord Shiva as a gesture of benediction, the column of light, condescended as hill for the benefit of mankind. Since the colour of flame is crimson red  ”Aruna” and the hill is “achala (Insentient)- it is Arunachala- reflecting the true aspect of God – “Dynamic Inertia.”

As seen while going round the Hill

Shiva manifested and is worshipped   as five elements - panchabhutas – Arunachala as fire, in Chidambaram as Akash (space or ether), in Kalahasthi as air, in Kanchi as earth (Ekambareswar) and Jumbukeshwar as Water. These are important pilgrimages of Lord Shiva.

No sooner, one enters the town of Thiruvannamalai, it is the holy hill that beckons - the peace that emanates is quite palpable even for an agnostic. That is the power of Holy Hill Arunachala.

Once Parvathi playfully closed the eyes of Shiva in their home garden in Kailash. Though it was a brief second in Kailash, it translated into ages for terrestrial realms and plunged them into darkness. Realizing the impending calamity, Shiva opened his spiritual eye and saved them. To redeem the sin, thus accrued by her act, Parvathi had come down to Mount Arunachala and undertook penance. Shiva graced her and to end such future separations from her, He offered half body and became “Arthnareeswara”. Signifying this divine act, there is “Arthanareeswara Temple on the eastern slopes of Arunachala.

Arthanareeswara Temple - Shiva as half  man and half woman 

Venkatraman, a runaway lad of sixteen, who later became a world teacher, Bhagavan Sri Ramana Maharshi lived on Arunachala Hill over 50 years. He extolled the glory of Arunachala in many vernacular Tamil verses, together known as “Arunachala Stuti Panchakam”- Five Gems in praise of Arunachala. He reemphasized the importance of circumambulation of the holy hill, a distance of 8 miles, in one’s spiritual quest. Devotees go round the hill, in bare foot, chanting various names of Shiva, a spiritual practice followed over the centuries. Ramana Ashram is another must visit place in Tiruvannamalai.

Of all festivals that Temple celebrates, the major one is Karthigai Deepam. A lamp is lit in a cauldron on top of the hill on full moon day in the month Karthigai, generally falls in November-December. The lamp is called Mahadeepam. More than 25 lac devotees gather to witness Mahadeepam every year.

In Ramanashram

Devotees doing Giripradakshina

If you can visit the Temple, go round the hill, visit the Ramana Ashram and witness Mahadeepam all in one breadth is a sure way of winning spiritual grand slam.

 How to Reach: Tiruvannamalai  is well connected by road from Bangalore and Chennai. A 5-hour drive.

Where to Stay: Fortunately, it is a place to suit every wallet. Many budget hotels are available. I recommend Ramana Towers if you are going with your family.

In love with Niagara Falls

The world is full of wonders. Some are man-made and some are nature’s gift to mankind. While former reflect ingenious and creative effort of man like in Great Pyramids and Taj Mahal, the latter takes you straight into the lap of Mother Nature. Niagara Falls is one such natural wonder. Here water falls from 20 story building height and that too in colossal volume - 600,000 litres in one second – that number doesn’t mean anything unless we correlate it with  facts of life. Bangalore city needs 250 million gallons of water every day. And that falls in Niagara in mere 25 minutes.  What entire Bangalore city needs in one year, that amount of water flows down in just 7 days in Niagara. That’s it. And it is Mother Nature’s handicraft.

Comfort Inn, the hotel where we checked in Niagara Falls, lived up to its name. It was around 6 ‘O’ clock, on that pleasant summer evening of August, we reached the hotel. In northern hemisphere, the summer days are very long and with sun shining, the evening was still young. A very pleasant weather, in contrast to muggy days of Philadelphia, and it took 7 hours by car to reach this pleasant spot. In fact, the nip in the air made us to huddle on to our wind cheaters. And we have decided to explore Niagara that very moment.

Walking thru state park of Niagara abutting our hotel, we saw, at a distance gigantic falls throwing mist into the air while roaring down. A mild evening drizzle added colours by splashing rainbow on the eastern sky. So wonderful. First time, I felt the nature, I heard the nature and I saw in its pristine form.

Almost at the neck of the falls, the Niagara River gets divided into three streams - one major and two small forming islands. So, there are 3 falls and collectively, are called Niagara Falls. The two are on American side and hence American falls. The major one is in between, dividing US and Canada. And that is 330 meters long and over period of time falling water eroded the middle of the cliff making it now look like horse shoe, hence Horseshoe Falls. The American falls are relatively very small. As the falling water gets lathered up, frothy and looks like a white veil of a Bride, hence one of them is called Bridal Veil Falls. Into this island we walked from State park. We have gone down to “cave of the wind”, the foot of Bridal Veil Falls. Though you wear rain coat, you will be soaked in the mist: spilling and spattering of falling water surely thrills you.

Next day, donning complimentary blue rain coats, we boarded “Maid of the Mist”, the boat that took us straight to basin of the Horseshoe Falls. Standing on the top deck facing the fall is memorable. The mist drenches one from head to toe. That moment one loses to nature willingly and completely: momentarily, you forget where you are.

On our way back, we bought souvenirs – a T- shirt and a tote bag. I am sure the memories of Niagara Falls lasts much longer than these man made items.

Bridal Veil Falls

In the Niagara State Park

On Maid of the Mist

Bridal Veil Fall from Maid of the Mist.

Clicking while Flying

Travel was part of my profession and took me to various destinations. I must have clocked half a million flying miles during my career spanning over 3 decades. Though most of it is within India, spending time within flight, an hour or two is always challenging.

While some doze off, most dig their heads into newspapers or in-flight magazines. I find shooting or clicking scenes below thru the window is another in-flight hobby very interesting and sharpens one’s creativity. You need not be pro, nor, you need pro gadgets. A simple point and shoot cameras is sufficient. But you need to prepare for and that starts before your enter the flight. Make sure you ask for window seat while checking in, preferably two or three rows behind the wing. It is easier if you web check in and that is best now a days. And, make sure you pick up some tissues or napkin from airport lounge - coffee shop or restrooms are best sources.

When once you enter the plane and settle, buckled-in in window seat, pull out paper napkin and clean the window glass. There will always be layer of dust and that need to be wiped out clean to get good photos. Don’t worry what your neighbor thinks. Just smile way if someone is watching you. Carry the camera in hand and never in the bag that is shoved in overhead chest to take it out later. You may miss some opportunities and remember that you are in window seat and retrieving the bag is cumbersome.

No sooner the departure is announced make sure your camera settings are in landscape, flash switched off mode. Keep it that way, ready. Good scenes of buildings or roads are best captured during the take-off and landing. And time available is very limited and that makes you to be on the edge of the seat. Since there is a double glass protection for the window of the plane, never focus your camera straight across the glass as reflected light spoil the snap. It should be at an angle while clicking.

Now, click as many snaps as possible while flight is taking off.  Experience is the best teacher and prepares you well for the next flight. Keep part of the wing in the frame always to bring credibility to the snaps. Sometimes when it is flying over mountain range, you get good shots. While landing, you can catch hustle-bustle of the city life besides buildings.

When you are flying shorter distances in small aircraft, you can catch wheels folding in and out. And bringing them in the frame will make very interesting snaps.

Wishing you a safe and clickable flight.

Some of my photos are here.

I never expected, my ten week stay in US would provide peekaboo view of American psyche and a grand revelation about us.

Having superannuated from service I have both time and some extra money at my disposal and that led me to visit my son living in Philadelphia, US. This is my maiden, rather Columbus visit to United States of America. After getting over jet lag, I started exploring neighbourhood and to my disappointment, I could gather by and large, American cities lack public transport - King of Prussia, a small town in north-western part of Philadelphia where my son lives is no exception. However, during my morning and evening walks I noticed a bus stop nearby, very clean but small. I hardly found anyone waiting for the bus. Upon browsing the net, I noticed that two busses ply, number 125 and 99 from that locality.  And Bus 125 goes to centre city hall which is downtown of Philadelphia and runs once in an hour.

This really excited me and I had decided to explore Philadelphia all alone when my son was off to work. Next day, I could catch bus no 125 and went to Downtown, typical like a tourist with a camera in hand and back pack. Since I have no agenda or plan, I was roaming around and enjoyed the walk in a strange land. While I was waiting near bus stop on my way back, one woman appearing very American asked me the way to Independence  hall - a tourist spot.  Though following quaint American accent was bit difficult, I could answer that I am as new to Philly as her. She smiled and walked off. Am I not looking like an outsider?

The only way I could spend my time between such infrequent adventures was by long morning and evening walks. I never found any one walking as I am all alone on the road. While walking I read all sign boards, road names and hotel names and soon the neighbourhood is very familiar to me. One day during such walk, a man stopped the car and asked me. ”Where is PSI building”. I know this place and guided him that he has to turn back and take a left turn and  can find it on left side, perhaps 2nd building in the row. Then, I asked him “Is my English clear to you”?

“Perfect, Thanks” and he was off.

And a similar enquiry on the other day by a lady for 1st Avenue. I could guide her perfectly.

These incidents of repeated “enquiring” with me, an apparently looking foreigner puzzled me.

If I get a doubt where is Ranganathan street in T. Nagar, Chennai – Do I enquire with a foreigner walking down the road or I prefer a local. The answer is obvious. I presume the foreigner is ignorant of topography of locality.

Why these Americans never thought that way?

One day, I read in community newspaper about Farmers’ Market being organised every Saturday in county office ground. The county website provided all details elaborately. I felt at home with the name Farmers’ market -Raitu bazar, life everywhere appears same and visited next Saturday by walk though it was 4 miles away. Around 10 to 12 stalls have been erected and farmers are selling their produce - fresh vegetables, pickles and raw milk and the place is maintained very clean and tidy. My son gave me his latest smart phone, so that I can call back in case I need help. I was trying to call back just to say I am safe, but I started struggling to operate the new gadget.

“I have similar one, I am no good using it too” I heard a woman’s voice over my shoulders.

An American woman sharing my plight broke ice with me. She is definitely on the wrong side of fifties.

“That’s the problem with age” I said showing my grey hair.

She laughed and walked away saying “Good luck with your phone”.

Again I started wondering on my way back home. Am I looking like a typical local or am I accepted here?

Any Indian visitor to US like me will be highly impressed with their disciplined public life and road sense while driving. They willingly “yield” to others “Priority” and that ensures road safety or make driving a pleasure. Parking is always clean, between the lines and never any other way. Special and convenient Parking lots are reserved for “Physically Challenged” Violation attracts fine and law is strict. Generally I found those parking lots are vacant save for once. I saw a man driving down the car into that reserved slot. From distance I watched the man getting down the car slowly with a prop - one of his legs was afflicted. Astonished, I asked my son how a man can drive with an afflicted leg - how does he operate break or gas pedal. My son went on saying the cars for them are fitted with hand controls. Wonderful, he is independent even then.

I was recapitulating all these experiences while flying back to India, in comfortable Air India flight which ran both ways punctual to the dot. Upon revaluation, it is clear these people living in this Promised Land have very open mind about others and about anything…that made them to enquire about and talk to me – a reflection of pluralistic thought. Their disciplined public life in an efficient system, irrespective of their physical condition, made them work hard. When choice is given, many of them, perhaps work harder. I read in a management magazine that Americans are most hard working people in the world. No wonder success in every sphere beckons them.

It is pluralism and discipline enshrined in the mind and adherence to law are what we need to progress- better roads, infrastructure can come later.

May be I am jumping to conclusions with very limited sampling, but I remember my mom saying that she checks only one grain for rice being cooked or not. Meanwhile, my flight landed with a thud in Mumbai airport – a throw back into different reality.